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History of Sherwani - Icon of Deccani Tehzeeb by Dr. Shabeena Pasha

 

History of Sherwani - Icon of Deccani Tehzeeb

By: Dr. Shabeena Pasha

 

 It is claimed that the sherwani originated in British India during the 18th century as a fusion of the Indo-Persian achkan and chogha with the British frock coat in an attempt at producing a westernized form of traditional attire. Both the contentions do not standup to a critical evaluation of medieval Indian couture through a study of paintings and illustrations of which we are fortunate enough to have quite a few examples in collections spread across the world. In Hyderabad itself one finds a portrait of Sultan Quli Qutubul Mulk, founder of the Golconda Kingdom, attired in a collared frock coat, the upper part snugly held together by six gem encrusted buttons and flaring into a wide skirt below the waist. The exquisite garment, trimmed at the sleeves with intricate embroidery which matches the pattern of the collar, lays to rest the presumption of a British frock coat ever being the precursor of the truly indigenous sherwani.

 The sherwani most certainly evolved from Indo-Persian dress patterns which underwent notable change during the late 19^th century mainly due to a lifestyle transformations precipitated by socio-political developments. Gentlemen were no longer required to be ever ready to mount a horse and charge off into battle and this freedom from constant vigil made the wide skirt redundant. As more befitting and graceful costumes evolved, the sherwani gained wide acceptance and became the most favored garment in the wardrobe of discerning Indian males. Preference for the sherwani as formal dress by a majority of the key players in the freedom struggle and its extensive usage by Jawaharlal Nehru ensured its being declared as the national dress of India following independence. Interestingly it was also adopted as the official garb of Sri Lanka where it had been introduced by the Mudaliars.

 Although the sherwani is mentioned as one of the garments favored by the second Nizam, it came into vogue in Hyderabad only during the reign of Mahbub Ali Khan, sometime at the end of the 19^th century. For the last Nizam, Osman Ali Khan, it became the dress of choice and subsequently gained official status as mandated court attire. Salar Jung III is credited with introducing the use of handloom fabrics, enabling the sherwani to emerge as a daily wear garment due to the resulting affordability and it has remained the distinctive apparel of Hyderabadi gentlemen ever since. Though constant usage today is restricted to a few, the people of Hyderabad invariably don the sherwani on momentous occasions in their life and it remains obligatory wear for the bridegroom at Hyderabadi wedding.

 The Hyderabadi sherwani is readily identifiable due to its unique fit and frappe in contrast to its north Indian manifestation which barely covers the thighs, the Hyderabadi version is considerably longer and extends to slightly below knee level. The six buttons rule, first apparent in Sultan Quli’s attire, is scrupulously followed by the people of Hyderabad barring the rare case of an exceptionally tall individual who is forced to adopt the Hindustani style of seven buttons to ensure a proper fit. Additionally six smaller sized studs, three for each sleeve complete the embellishment. Other distinctive features of the Hyderabadi sherwani, like a high collar and flaps covering breast pockets, are no longer in use. The loss of these distinctive features is largely due the limited clientele which fails to generate enough business for really good masters to practice the art and pass on their expertise to the next generation. John Burton, the Nizam’s own couturier who was the most sought after sherwani craftsman of Hyderabad, left behind a legacy which remains unmatched.

 The post independence scenario at Hyderabad witnessed a drastic change in attire with the erstwhile residents of the city being relegated to the background. The few who refused to give up icons of old culture suffered greatly and most began restricting their cultural identity within the four walls of their homes.

 It is said that once when a request for funding of a seminar on the contributions of sherwani to Deccan History was labeled the concerned minister flew into a rage and screamed at the organizers for attempting to resurrect icons of a dead culture. His secretary, one of the few surviving old timers in administration, had to enlighten him that it was the great historian, Padmsree Haroon Khan Sherwani and not the garment that was proposed to be discussed at the meet! Such were enlightened successors to Hyderabad’s rich and multi faceted legacy. Despite unreasonable bias against iconic markers of Hyderabadi ethos, the sherwani continues to be a prime symbol of cultural identify for Indians.

 

-Dr. Shabeena

THE SACRED FIRE COMMUNITY: THE PARSIS OF HYDERABAD

THE SACRED FIRE COMMUNITY: THE PARSIS OF HYDERABAD

On August 21, the Parsis living in Hyderabad and Secunderabad will gather at the sacred fire temple to celebrate Navroz, the Parsis New Year. For the believers of sacred fire, Pateti, the last day of the year is a day to seek forgiveness for past sins and Navroz the following day signals a fresh start.

Though the Parsi community is extremely small, total of 438 families and 1,169 living in the twin-cities, these are very distinguished and very well educated community. They are talented especially in arts and business and are generally noted for their gaiety celebrations, lavish hospitality and philanthropic contributions. Culturally speaking, Hyderabadi Parsis are a combination of Hyderabadi culture with strong British influences making them distinctly different from their counterparts in other cities.

The Parsis came to India from the Persian province about 1200 years ago to safeguard their religion and the teachings of Zarathustra. In Hyderabad, the Asaf jahi Dynasty attracted some of the best Parsi talent and many of them spent their lives in the service of the Nizam occupying positions of trust and responsibility.

The Parsi-Zoroastrian Anjuman of Secunderabad is the main temple and community center. This also acts as a governing body of various properties, Dharmashala and the three fire temples (one in Hyderabad and two in Secunderabad). To address the aging and numerically declining population Anjuman conducts several community support programs including education, community development and fertility programs. In the last five years only 30 marriages and less than 50 births were celebrated, as noted by the Anjuman.

The Zoroastrian club is the venue for most community activities. Hyderabad also boasts of Parsi colonies like bapu Bagh and Shapurbagh.

The two 'Towers of Silence', Parsi funeral services centers where scavenging birds dispose of their dead, are located at Bhoiguda and Parsigutta. According to Times news paper article the Zoroastrian scripture and tradition say that a corpse is a host for decay. Consequently, scripture enjoins the safe disposal of the dead in a manner such that a corpse does not pollute the air, water and earth, said Ervad H Bharucha, head priest of Chenoy Fire Temple. However, Parsi community in Hyderabad has been forced to resort to solar concentrators to carry out the last rites.

 The community, a total of approximately 70,000 across India consists largely of an inbred population and increasingly declining, as a result of the self-imposed discouragement of intercommunity marriages, acceptance of those who inter-marry and their spouses and offspring. Some argue that, unless this is addressed the community will continue to dwindle, while others argue that intermarriage will erode the distinctiveness of the community.

 

For Ms.Dilshad Patel (left), an actress in small budget films and a proud supporter of the Hyderabadi community “Family isn’t always blood. It’s the people in your life who want you in theirs; the ones who accept you for who you are”.
Ms. Dilshad Patel, Actress

                                                                   Written by

                                                          Quddus Mohammed

THE RASHTRAPATI NILAYAM

RASHTRAPATI NILAYAM :

 Besides the Rashtrapati Bhavan in New Delhi, the President has official residences in two other states - Rashtrapati Nilayam near Secunderabad and The Retreat at Mashobra, near Shimla.

The Rashtrapati Nilayam is the only Presidential retreat in the South of India

  Photographed by Raja Deen Dayal in the 1880’s this magnificent single storied mansion was constructed by Nizam Nazir-ud-Dowla in 1860. Located in the quite cantonment area of Bolarum in Secunderabad, this was originally the residence of Nizam’s chief military officer. This was later occupied by British Viceroys.

 
 The construction of this building was completed in 1860 and is spread over 97-acres of landscaped garden. The building has 20 rooms which include a darbar hall, morning room, dining hall and a cinema hall.

    The flag post-cum-weather watch instrument, which was located on the lawns on the north-west was erected in 1867. It was here the Prince Azam Jah handed over the Hyderabad state to Indian Union. After the merger of Hyderabad State with the Union of India in 1950, the government took over the building and converted it into a resort for the President.

    Only a replica of the flag post is exhibited in the Cinema Hall in residential complex. The 154 year old Residency House is now called Rashtrapati Nilayam.

    The three winged Madras style retreat is roofed at 20 to 25 feet in height, surrounded by-low level common verandah. The three wings are Presidents wing, family wins and dining wing. A 50-metre long ventilated tunnel links the state kitchen to the state dining hall. The tunnel was built for the safety of the Nizam, as there was a huge that his food could be poisoned by his enemies.

    The retreat's also has an old well, which is still used for irrigating the vast lawns of the Nilayam. The premises comprises landscaped garden, seasonal flowering plants and display of potted plants around the main building, natural cascading waterfalls and seven different types of nutrition gardens of Mango, Pomegranate, Guava, Amla, Coconut and Cheeku.

    In December 2009 the Herbal Garden was inaugurated  and included  medicinal , aromatic and 116 species of medicinal and aromatic plants including sarpagandha, kalabandha, citronella, lemon grass, khus, geranium, coriander, sandalwood, tuber rose, jasmine, kalmegh, tulsi etc.

 

Written by
Quddus Mohammed

 

"THE TASTE OF WORDS" BY PROF RAZA MIR

THE TASTE OF WORDS

-An introduction to Urdu Poetry

 

“Yeh Kaisa Ishq hai Urdu Zuban Ka

Maza ghulta hai lafzon ka zaban per”

“Urdu is a nation by itself. Where ever it travels, it creates its own world. Wherever Urdu goes, it clasps people in a bear hug. It becomes a tradition unto itself. For Urdu is, after all lingua franca of culture”, describes world renowned writer Gulzar who wrote the foreword of the latest book from Professor Raza Mir “The Taste of Words”. The book was launched this month and was commissioned by Penguin India.

To the Hyderabadi Diasporas of New York and New Jersey Prof Raza Mir is not a new face. The charming handsome Professor elegantly with subtle humor, dressed in Shahi long black sherwani and speaking fluent Telugu and Urdu, is the opening face of the fastest growing Hyderbadi Cultural Association of New York. He is among the prominent Hyderabadi’s and included in the association’s “Amazing Diasporas” section of the association’s annual journal.

 

“Khudi ko kar buland itna ke har taqdeer se pehle

Khooda bande se khud pooche, bata teri raza kya hai”

       Born in the old city of Hyderabad, Prof. Raza Mir is a graduate of  Indian Institute of Management, Calcutta and a PhD from University of Massachusetts. He teaches management at William Paterson University, USA. He co-edited a book titled Organizations, Markets and Imperial Formations: Towards an Anthropology of Globalization (London: Edward Elgar Press.)

       A passionate lover of Urdu Prof. Raza Mir believes that Urdu continues to be a vibrant and lively language. “Writing about Urdu poetry is my passion and it provides me an escape to tranquility”, he says. He co-authored with Hussain Mir the book “Anthems of Resistance: A Celebration of Progressive Urdu Poetry. I have been interested in Urdu poetry since I was an adolescent, but never formally learned the language. My obsession with Urdu forced me to learn the Urdu script.

 
The intended readership, as the author writes, are not really the Urdu or Urdu Poetry experts but it serves as convenient introduction to Urdu poetry. The book begins with a brief historical essay on Urdu and Urdu poetry and has about 150 poems from legendary writers like Amir Khusrau, Mir

Taqi Mir and Mirza Ghalib to the lyrics of contemporary Urdu writers like Javed Akhtar, Kaifi Azmi and Gulzar. “My favorite poets are Javed Akhtar and Gulzar, and a variety of feminist poets Fahmida Riaz, Zehra Nigah and Ishrat Aafreen”.

 Ghazal is a dominant form of Urdu poem structured in the form of “shers” couplets. To explains this to the readers Raza quotes examples of popular songs and ghalzals like Hasrat Mohani’s “Chupke Chupke raat Din”

 

Hum ko ashiqui ka vo zamana yaad hai

Aur dupatte main tera vo moonh chupana yaad hai

Prof Mir is married to Farah Mir, an investment banker.  “This book is first and foremost a gift for my wife Farah” writes Prof Raza .  The couple has two sons and lives in New Jersey.

                                                           

WANT TO HOST  AN EVENING WITH  WRITERS &  POETS

EMAIL: HCAOFGNY@GMAIL.COM

 

PICNIC PHOTO ALBUM:

CLICK LINK BELOW:

HCA 2014 GUNDIPET PICNIC
 

 

WINNING CRICKET TEAM -HCA PICNIC 24TH JUNE 2014

HCA PICNIC WINNING TEAM

CAPTAIN MR. NAYEEM SIDDIQUI

FOUR TEAMS PLAYED LIMITED OVER MATCHES

AT THE HECKSCHER STATE PARK, NEW YORK

24TH JUNE 2014

 

THANK YOU NOTE: 'GUNDIPET PICNIC' EVENT SUCCESSFUL

OUR HEARTFELT GRATITUDE:The 2nd Annual Gundipet Style Picnic was a great success for everyone involved. Over 225 Hyderabadi's came out to enjoy a fun filled weekend of BBQ, games and activities for all ages. The weather was extremely cooperative and made the weekend festival an enjoyable experience for all who attended.

On behalf of the HCA event committee, I extend our heartfelt gratitude to all the wonderful folks who traveled far and participated with zest & gusto in all day long activities.

YOUR GOODWILL & FRIENDSHIP IS DEEPLY APPRECIATED

Many of you have whole heartedly volunteered  throughout the day in various ways and we deeply appreciate your goodwill.

Most of all, our sincere gratitude to all the founding and core group members that worked so hard to make the event happen. Your commitment to HCA and your generous complimentary food (Dabal Ka Mitha, Jilabbi, Corn, Hot dogs, Cup Cakes, popcorn stall and all those great snacks + water + soda) has gone a long way at ensuring the event’s success and we truly appreciate it.

As for me, the best part was toward the at the end of the day as we gathered under the pavilion for Chai around Mr. Arvind Acharya for an engaging discussion on Hyderabad, its proud history, culture and traditions. Sir Arvind, we thank you from our heart.

Thank You.

In the Spirit of friendship.

Quddus Mohammed

President

MESSAGES POSTED:

URDUWALLAHS or URDUWALLIS

 

HYDERBADIS ALWAYS HAVE A GREAT SENSE OF HUMOR

HYDERBADIS ALWAYS HAVE A GREAT SENSE OF HUMOR

 It all started out in Old City in the early sixties (1962) when common Hyderabadis were still adjusting to the political and geographical changes after the painful partition of the country followed by Police action on Hyderabad State, few enthusiastic youngsters with a sense of humor rose from such situation to form a group, which they named Zinda Dilane Hyderabad. The aim of the group is to promote and propagate humor, says the authors of Shugoofa magazine on their website.

 Tragedy and comedy are tightly connected. There is nothing more freeing than talking about a heavy subject only to lighten the mood with some laughter. The humor culture gets evolved to bring people together, or to bring perspective to serious topics, and to expose deep truths.

The Padma Shri award recipient Hyderabadi humorist and literary figure  Mr. Mujtaba Hussain was quoted in a blog saying “Hyderabadi humor has evolved over the years and despite passage of time still has that spark”. “Humor grew in Hyderabad as a fine art” he added.

 The Hindu news paper writes “Mr. Hussain’s writings open up the lips and the heart and at the same time show the pearls and the soul. At a time when the Urdu language has few takers, Mr. Hussain has revived interest in it through his satirical writings. The simple but literary touch in his works comes as a breath of fresh air. “His humour is laced with a bitter truth which only a honest person can perceive,” says his daughter, Rashida Samdani. Those who have read his “Apni Yad Mein” composition will know. It is a masterpiece of self obituary wherein the author highlights his own follies while taking pot-shots at life.

The Hyderabadi humor is authentic, light-hearted and "Zarra Hatke". What's interesting is that most people speak it without knowing that it is a language which has a rather rich history. There is a popular story floating on internet of an Hyderabadi born auto driver, Mallana Anna, who spoke Hyderabadi Hindi without knowing what it's really called, “Isko kya bolte? Yeh to Hindiich hai?”. “Isme sab mixing hai. Hindi hai, Urdu hai, Telugu hai. Ye mast hai. Hau idhar sab longan yeich bolte”.

 Apart from a few individual efforts to promote humor through media, there are no concrete efforts to improve and develop Hyderabadi humor. The veteran journalist and the author of the book Mehmood: Man of Many Moods writes “Intelligent comedy in Hindi films began only in the sixties and at the peak of this new comedy stood Mehmood”.  His versatile style and Hyderabadi humor is fondly remembered in the filmi world.

In 80’s Hamed Kamal and Subhani took Hyderabadi humor and comedy to new

heights as they completed 5,000 live shows around the globe, with the title of Dedh-Matwale.

The movie Angrez released in 2005 directed by Kuntaa Nikkil was a trend-setter in that, it was one of the first to effectively and humorously, portrayed the dialect of the Old City, Hyderabad and the Hyderabadi style. After the success of Angrez another blog buster movie “Hyderabad Nawabs”  hit the Indian cinema.

 “Whatte Fun”.....to have fun I have to ask you get involved in HCA activities and editorial release. Involvement is HCA’s theme this year.

 

Help us revive the Humor of Hyderabad.

Promoting Talent and Hyderabadi Humorist:

Mr. Hussain Baqueri: Nargis Dutt Memorial Foundation announces new President

Mr. Hussain Baqueri: Nargis Dutt Memorial Foundation announces new President.

 

Mr. Hussain Baqueri knows how to make a statement -will show you how to dress with distinction, as the board of the Nargis Dutt Memorial Cancer Foundation (NDMF), a pre-eminent non-profit that strives to improve and upgrade cancer treatment and care in India announced its new President.

         Taking over the New York based charitable organization, Hussain said in a statement that as President he looks forward to working towards fulfilling the dreams and aims of the foundation started in 1981. To accomplish that, he sought the continued support of the NDMF board and the community at large.

        NDMF was established in 1981 in memory of cine star Nargis Dutt who died of cancer, by her husband Sunil Dutt, actor-director-turned-politician. Over the last 33 years, NDMF has completed 56 projects in India valued at more than $5 million.

        On January 01, 2015 Mr. Baqueri will take over as the President of the Hyderabadi Cultural Assocaition. “The Hyderabadi community (HCA) is proud of you” said Mr. Quddus Mohammed, President of HCA as he congratulates Mr. Baqueri for this prestigious position.

          Hyderabad born Baqueri began his career as a commercial pilot. Immigrating to the US in 1977 he acquired an MBA in Finance & International Business from University of Pennsylvania. Currently, he is the Vice President of Client Services for North and South America at Jet Aviation, a General Dynamics company which manages aviation assets globally. He also runs several small businesses including Sir Speedy Printing & Marketing Services in Plainview, NY.

 Mr. Hussain Baqueri was born in Hyderabad, India. He received his B.Sc. and M.B.A. Degrees from Osmania University and graduated from the Andhra Pradesh Flying Club with a Commercial Pilot and Flight Instructor licenses. After immigrating to the USA in 1977, he attended Spartan University of Aeronautics in Tulsa, Oklahoma to convert his aeronautical licenses.

 
          Mr. Baqueri is well known as a community leader who charitably donates his time and efforts to many local organizations. He is affiliated with several charities and networking groups across the Tri State area. While in India, he was an active member of the Interact and Rotaract Clubs (the Young Rotarians) helping the poor in the slums of Hyderabad. He is very passionate about mentoring the young people, who he believes are the future of our community.

          Some of the organizations that he represents include : The Nargis Dutt Memorial Foundation, Hyderabad Cultural Association, The Rotary Club of Hicksville South, The Huntington Kiwanis Club, The Chambers of Commerce of Plainview, Hicksville, Melville and Huntington, The National Business Aircraft Association, The Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association, SANA, to name a few.

     Always on the go, he is a man of many talents who always strives to be the best. He has been awarded several public service citations from local government agencies and a Paul Harris Fellow Award from Rotary International. He received India Association of Long Island Pioneer Award 2013 Excellence in Aviation Leadership and 2012 Business Leadership award by the Hicksville Chamber of Commerce.

       Mr. Baqueri is married to Noor, his wife of 35 years, and has two wonderful children – Sarah and Ali and now a beautiful granddaughter Zayna. Sarah has a Law Degree from Hofstra University while Ali studied Aircraft Maintenance Engineering at Vaughn College of Aeronautics. Together they operate the family business Sir Speedy of Plainview, New York.

A Moment of Pride for New York's Hyderabadis

A Moment of Pride for New York's Hyderabadis

Proud Rotarians  join the celebration

           

Dressed elegantly in black suit, crisp white shirt and black bow-tie Mr. Quddus Mohammed, the founder and Charter President of the Hyderabadi Cultural Association gracefully walked to Addressing the audience after receiving the prestigious 2014 Humanitarian award of the Francis Logan Jr. Foundation. The ceremony was held on May 7^th at Crest Hollow Country Club, New York as several Hyderabadi’s and Rotarians join him in support.

Mr. Quddus is also the current President and a founding member of the Rotary Club of Hicksville South. In June 2014, he will assume his new role at Rotary as the Assistant Governor. “A superior leader is a person who can bring ordinary people together to achieve extraordinary results," He is also appointed as a Board of Trustee for the Charter Community School, New York.

            Mr. Quddus was born in Hyderabad, India. Growing up in a middle-class family, he was taught to be humble and thus it cultivated a simple but strong character-rich inner core and pioneering leadership. “Despite triumphs and temptations, I am a simple man with a simple mind. There absolutely nothing special about me” he says in his speech to over 120 guest who attended the award ceremony.

             Just after graduating in Finance he set out to make a difference in his life. He started his career in 1981 as a junior accountant with a UK based construction firm and in 1985 stepped up as an investment analyst in the reserve management department of a monetary authority in the Middle East until he immigrated to the USA in 1997.

             He currently resides in Bethpage, New York and has been working as a successful investment professional in New York consulting for some of the world’s largest institutional investors, plan sponsors and SWF’s for their global investment needs.

             Mr. Quddus is giving back by immersing himself in various social causes including the promotion of education among the youth and professional community, helping the disabled and hundreds of families in need.

             In 2011, under the umbrella of the Rotary Club of Hicksville South, he founded a popular and the fastest growing community based Literacy Program called ROTA-PAAL. The program has helped hundreds on Long Islanders improve their professional and life skills in a variety of faculties. “It is being a partner, you become a leader” says Mr. Quddus as he speaks to the press on the launch of the Rotary Literacy Program.

            In September 2011 Mr. Quddus was awarded by the Rotary District for his excellence in service and in September 2013 the  Hicksville Chamber of Commerce honored him with 2013 Community Service Award. In addition to this he received several recognitions from local, state and county in appreciation for his service. The 2014 Annual Awards of the Francis J. Logan Foundation is yet another feather in his cap.

            Mr. Quddus is married to Seema Zaki, who is an accountant at Nassau County department of human services. The couple has a son Zoha Mohammed, a graduate from University of Michigan, Ann Arbor College of Engineering and a daughter Samreen Mohammed.

MR. MOHAMMED, FOUNDER OF EQUALLY ABLE HONORED

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HCA EXECUTIVE BOARD 2014