A Royal Palace for Royal Books : Chowmahalla Palace

A Royal Palace for Royal Books : Chowmahalla Palace

The breath taking grandeur and style of the royal palaces constructed during the Asaf Jahi dynasty features the architectural past of 18th century Hyderabad. Chowmahalla Palace, one of the six sumptuously illustrated palaces, is located in densely populated medieval streets of old Hyderabad. Its grand arches, pillared grand hall, Italian marble statues and a marble royal seat Takht-e-Nishan was intended as the visible expression of the glory of the Nizams. Here the Nizams held their durbar and other religious and symbolic ceremonies. The masterpiece interior offer vivid insights in to Asif Jahi imperial classicism, traditions and deeper social insights of the time. Soon this will be the next home to the Royal library.

Chowmahalla palace was the royal seat of the Asaf Jahi dynasty and was also official residence of the Nizams VII. Architecturally modeled on Shah of Iran’s palace in Iran, the Chowmahalla or four palaces are walled within the vast gardens. The palaces are named Afzal Mahal, Mahtab Mahal, Tahniyat Mahal and Aftab Mahal. The three of the four palaces are single storied, while the main palace Afzal Mahal, is a two storied structure. The carefully fabricated architecture with elements of arts in its walls and ceilings and flowing from the ceiling 19 spectacular chandeliers of Belgian crystal is a symbol of royal extravagance. The two courtyards of the palace, a southern courtyard and a northern courtyard, provide a private and public space. The southern court yard host four palaces, while the Northern courtyard is a long series of rooms facing the fountain and pool to host visiting dignitaries.

HE. Asaf Ad-Dawlah, the third son of Asaf Jah initiated its construction in 1750, but it was completed by HE. Afzal Ad-Dawlah, the Nizam V between 1857 and 1869 in several phases. The exact date of construction is not known: no dated inscription or other source of information has survived. The palace originally covered 45 acres, extends from Lad bazaar in the north to Aspan Chowk in the south. But only 14 acres remain today.

Since the death of Nizam VI HE. Mir Mehboob Ali Khan in 1911 the palace was used as an official residence for foreign signatories. After the family fled in 1948, although the Palace was owned by the Asif Jah family, but it was largely disintegrated, disconnected and encroached. No one was permitted to even enter the palace gates, and gradually the palace fell into disrepair.

The present Nizam, Prince Mukarran Jah and his former Turkish wife Princess Esra showed appreciation of the monument and invited renowned architect Rahul Malhotra of RMA Architects, a Mumbai-based firm who recently completed a corporate campus project in The HITEC city of Hyderabad, to conserve and restore the Chowmahalla palace. The Princess personally oversaw every detail of the restoration project with aristocratic zeal. Rahul Malhotra said that the buildings were in a state of severe decay, damaged drainage system, molded plaster ceilings had caved in; floors of rare wood were rotting. After five years of restoration the palace opened to the public in early 2000. The visitors may step into history to gain understanding of the Asaf Jah Dynasty and also listen to the music records from Nizam’s private collection, which is played on an antique phonograph.

"The Princes gathering scattered papers dusting in the cellar of Nazri Bagh Palace, Chowmahalla Palace and Chiran Palace".


The Princess Esra has enthused scholars and historians by expressing their desire to house the treasure trove of Nizam's rare books, manuscripts and documents at the Mehtab Mahal of Chowmahalla palace belonging to sixth and seventh Nizam, reported Times of India. The library will also host eight volumes of Nizam's published poetry. A web directory is being created," said G Kishan Rao, Advisor of Chowmahalla palace. Spanning back to 16th century research scholars and historians will have access to this magnificent collection from the three Asaf Jahi palaces; Chowmahalla, Nazri Bagh and Chiran palace. There is a large collection of books and manuscripts at Falaknuma Palace library, which will be left at the location. The collection of Chiran Palace is the intellectual generosity of Prince Mukarram Jah, while the collection at Nazri Bagh is expected to be most important as this was the official residence of the Nizam until his death in 1967.

In 2,000 the Princess Esra contacted Amin Uddin Khan, a scion of Hyderabad nobility and a noted writer to take the project of saving documents dusting in the cellar of Nazri Bagh Palace. The books here are from all over the globe. The officials estimate that there are 5,000-6,000 books covering diverse subjects including history, art and culture. Several Islamic books are also part of the massive collection, including about 1,000 hand written copies of the Quran, some of which are 600 years. Among the documents also include royal decrees issued on variety of subject, correspondence between viceroys, details of visits of dignitaries and administrative records. These records date back to times of fifth, sixth and seventh Nizam, says Times.

Times of India reported that the team working on restoration found large numbers of pieces of papers over, which the Nizam had scribbled notes by pencil. A study of these documents may capture the moments of absolute importance to the history of what was going on in the mind of the Nizam who, after reaching pinnacle of power in 1937, had to merge his state into the Indian Union. The years, say between 1937 and 1948, are most crucial, writes Times.

The Chowmahalla palace’s advisor Mr. G Kishan Rao says "the library, which has already taken a decent shape will be consolidated and opened for research scholars soon. This, he believes, will help at relooking at Nizam, his contributions and the times more objectively".

Nizam VII, a poet himself, valued rare books, manuscripts, scholars and writers. He wrote poetry in Urdu and Persian. There is not much information available on his education but records of his early life tells us that eminent scholars were engaged to teach him English, Urdu and Persian languages. He enjoyed the company of intellectual elites and held endless series of discussions with scholars at his darbar. He was also tutored by Islamic scholars and acquired deep knowledge of theology. According to writer and historian Mr. Narendra Luther by the age 30 Nizam VII had already published 750 poems (ghazals) in six volumes. His last published poem was written in 1958 in Persian and was published in English news papers by the order of Prime Minister Jawahar Lal Nehru.

Nizam VII strongly believed in education of his people. He played a central role in introducing educational reforms that helped his generation and generations to follow. He cultivated education across his state through encouraging scholars and building of universities. He provided easy access to education by ordering establishment of schools and made primary education compulsory. He provided free education to the poor. Among the many buildings constructed during his reign include Osmania Hospital and Medical University, translation bureau and Osmania University. The forward-thinking ruler also made education of English language compulsory in universities. He supported institutions like the Telugu Academy for bringing out the book on Ancient Hindu buildings of Hyderabad, Banaras University, Aligarh University and Dar Uloom Deoband in Uttar Pradesh.

The legal advisor to Prince Mukarram Jah, Mr.Vijay Shankardass, says to read between the lines of Princess Esra’s efforts to restore palaces is not fair. While she owes her interest in palaces to her training in architecture, he says that it is in a constructive spirit she has restored the legacy of the Nizams. "Rest assured all this is being done on Mukarram Jah name,’’ he says, adding that one can’t fault her for carrying out the restoration of the Asaf Jah dynasty.

Written by:
Quddus Mohammed
President
Hyderabadi Cultural Association of Greater New York
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